Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world at 8,485 metres (27,838 ft). It is located in the Mahalangur Himalayas, southeast of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet, China. The name Makalu is derived from the Sanskrit Maha Kala, a name for the Hindu god Shiva that translates “Big Black.” The impressive four-sided, pyramid-shaped mountain is southeast of Mount Everest, the highest mountain in the world, and Lhotse, the fourth highest mountain in the world. The isolated peak straddles the border of Nepal and Tibet, a region currently governed by China. The summit itself lies directly on the international boundary.
Makula has two lower subsidiary summits. Chomo Lonzo (25,650 feet / 7,678 meters) is two miles northwest of the main Makalu summit. Chomo Lonzo (25,603 feet / 7,804 meters) is in the northeast of Makalu’s summit in Tibet. The mountain was first climbed by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy during a exploration expedition to Makalu in 1954 via its gentle southwest ridge. The mountain did not see a second ascent until 1993 when a Japanese expedition climbed it.
The first ascent of Makalu was on May 15, 1955 when French climbers Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy reached the summit. On May 16, expedition leader Jean Franco, Guido Magnone, and Sardar Gyaltsen Norbu reached the top. Following day, on May 17, the rest of the expedition climbers–Serge Coupe, Pierre Leroux, Jean Bouvier, and Andre Vialatte–also summitted. This was an amazing achievement at the time, to have the vast majority of expedition members summit, especially on such a difficult peak. This was considered very unusual and rare case. During most large expeditions of the time usually placed a couple team members on the summit with the rest of the climbers acting as logistical support by fixing ropes and carrying loads to higher camps. The team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route. The mountain is not overcrowded like nearby Mount Everest.
Makalu is one of the harder and considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock/ice climbing.
Makula lies within Nepal’s Makalu-Barun National Park and Conservation Area. The parkland protects pristine ecosystems from tropical rainforests to alpine tundra above 13,000 feet. The remote Barun Valley below Makalu is particularly important. It is considered as a Strict Nature Reserve to preserve its unique qualities and ecosystems. The park includes an extraordinary diversity of plants. 3,128 species of flowering plants, including 25 species of rhododendron has been identified. Many animals and birds also do live in here, with over 440 bird species and 88 mammal species, which includes a red panda, snow leopard, and the rare Asian golden cat.
